Articles by EJA Members
Crystal Beads
by Julia of Ivorys Arts
I'm going to talk about crystals, more specifically Swarovski full-lead crystals, also known as Austrian crystals, as they are considered the premiere manufacturer of leaded crystals worldwide. Many of the terms used will also apply to other crystal brands, so they will have a broader range of application than just one brand or type of crystal.
First of all, Swarovski produces an incredible array of colors; some, but not all, are produced in a regular color and a light color (amethyst and light amethyst, for example). However, the range of colors is broadened considerably when finishes and effects are added. This is one of the first distinctions that many people are unaware of. A finish is applied over a clear or colored crystal, while an effect involves elements added to the crystal during manufacture to create an altered color shift. These are differentiated in the crystal name, if the name begins with the word Crystal, it is usually an effect (Crystal Silver Shade, Crystal Moonlight, and Crystal Vitrail Light are examples). If the crystal has a coating, it is added to the color; Amethyst AB, Emerald AB2X and Jet Dorado are examples. However, there can be some confusion, for instance Crystal AB is a coating, not an effect. And Satin is treated like a coating but is actually a more color-saturated crystal which is created during manufacture of the crystal (like other effects), rather than applying a coating afterward.
Finishes
1. AB - perhaps the most common finish, offered not only on Swarovski but on other brands as well. It is sort for Aurora Borealis, and the finish coats about half of the crystal face. This is more evident on the opaque crystals, as the finish will reflect through clear crystal colors. The finish is not offered in all colors, and sometimes is produced with one color for a short time, and then not again. Due to the additional step in processing, these are slightly more expensive than the regular color crystals.
2. AB-2X - This is the Aurora Borealis finish, applied two times. In this finish, the coating covers the entire crystal, rather than half of it, and intensifies the 'rainbow' effect that the coating has. These are even less common, and again slightly more expensive, than the regular AB coated crystals.
3. Satin - Although often referred to like a coating, satin is produced during the manufacturing process, like most effects, and is a richer, more saturated color of the crystal.
4. CAL - Comet Argent Light, like the AB coating, is applied to half of the crystal and is a silver finish.
5. Dorado - Like CAL but a gold finish applied to a crystal, half color and half Dorado.
6. Matte - A colored crystal with a none-glossy finish.
Effects
Effects, unlike a finish, are created through the addition of chemicals during the production process which alter the reflectivity of light wave-lengths to create striking variations. Most, but not all, start with crystal, then add the chemicals, which provides the names for colors such as Crystal Silver Shade, Crystal Golden Shadow, Crystal Sage, Crystal Copper and Crystal Metallic Blue. Some other effects include Vitrail Medium, Vitrail Light, Hematite, Heliotrope, Meridian Blue, Glacier Blue, Aurum and Jet Nut.
The effects are more difficult to separate, as each 'color' is created through a different chemical blend with the crystals. And, while you will often see various finishes combined, such as Satin AB, or Matte AB, combinations of effects, or an effect and a finish, are much more uncommon, usually done in very small runs for a short period of time, and thus very difficult to find. Most effects are not also a color, you won't find Siam Vitrail, for instance. And, although classified as an effect, Dorado is treated like a coating, so you will occasionally find colors combined with Dorado. These color effects are the exception, however, and will be harder to find and more expensive than the more common colors.
Next week I will begin defining terms used for jewelry that describe specific techniques used in making certain pieces.
|